Archive for the ‘Huon Valley & The Channel’ Category
Bruny Island: A Collection of Memories
Bruny Island: An Introduction
by Roger Findlay
Bruny Island Ferry: Kettering
Bruny Island can be accessed by regular ferry service from Kettering in the Huon Valley region. Kettering is a comfortable 45 minute drive south of Hobart on the southern outlet via Kingston. To make the journey a bit more interesting, we usually travel along the coast road through Sandy Bay and Taroona where you may wish to visit to the Shot Tower.
Before you commence your journey, check out the Bruny Island Ferry departure times so that you don’t have to wait for too long.
The ferry boat is of drive on-drive off style and the cost for a return trip is between $28 and $42 depending on the season and length of the vehicle. The good ship Mirambeena sails at a steady pace for twenty minutes before docking at Roberts Point south of Barnes Bay right at the start of the Bruny Island main road. The crossing can be a bit blowy but I don’t think you need to take tablets for sea sickness!
Isthmus: Memorial to Truganini
Now for those of you that don’t know what an isthmus is, I can tell you! It is a narrow strip of land between two seas. Bruny is almost like two islands (north and south) joined by an isthmus just wide enough for the road. With the sea either side, it makes for a very different drive. Half way across the isthmus is a lookout and a memorial to Truganini who was born on the island and was married at the island’s mission in 1829.
Lookout for Bruny Island Residents…
Before we went, I read there are more snakes on Bruny than anywhere else in Tasmania. This didn’t stop us from staying a few days and we’re glad we did as there’s so much to see and do. The coastal views are breathtaking especially at Kelly’s Lookout.

Breathtaking coastal views abound on Bruny Island
We stayed in a small house in Lunawanna (South Bruny). It was fairly close to the Cape Bruny lighthouse where we spent time walking the surrounds. For those interested in history, you can visit the location of Captain James Cook’s 1777 landing at Adventure Bay.
Bruny Island Foodie Paradise!
For the foodie, Bruny Island is paradise. I am told the Bruny Island Smokehouse (BISH) is a must. We chose a cheese platter and fresh baked bread from Nick Haddow’s cheese factory but you may choose to source freshly caught fish or oysters. The Hotel at Alonnah serves hearty pub food and you can sit outside drinking a cleansing ale right beside the sea.
We’ve been to Bruny Island twice now and it’s a place we would visit again. Three days on the island makes it worthwhile and reduces the odds of seeing one of those snakes I told you about!
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Map: Bruny Island Tasmania…
Ida Bay Railway: Lune River to Deep Hole
Ida Bay Railway
by Allegra Biggs Dale & Meg Thornton
The Ida Bay Railway is original. Of the hundreds of miles of narrow gauge bush tramways built in Tasmania the Ida Bay Railway is the only original railway in existence. There are relics of the limestone carrying days in the form of wagons and machinery. Several of the passenger carriages are built on bogie flat wagons built in the 1890s; some of the earliest bogie wagons in Australia.
All Aboard at the Lune River Railway Station
The company livery is red and the line is over 7kms long, so please allow two hours for the return trip. From Lune River you will travel through light bush to the shores of Ida Bay. The line passes through the site of the original town of Ida Bay past the wharf and grave yard that is all that remains of a once thriving area. Soon after reaching the shores of the Lune River estuary and for a mile or so the scenic views across the waterways are superb.
Travel past the bush site of Jagers Sawmill and Jetty through bush that lines either side of the track. The line terminates at Deep Hole Bay, a large white swimming beach accessible only by rail. The beach is nearly a mile long and very secluded. From Deep Hole there are marked bush walking tracks to King George III monument where a convict ship sank with a huge loss of life.
At the end of the line you can take advantage of the BBQ and picnic facilities. Bring your own lunch or have Meg’s Cafe cater for you. Ida Bay Railway cater for group functions and will provide lunch for you if you wish either at the station or at the beach, all arrangements made on a personal basis. Look out for the Twilight Tour during the holiday season and enjoy Tasmania’s starry nights!
Enjoy the 14km round trip from Lune River station travel through bush land abundant with bird life and wild flowers. Cross buttongrass plains and travel along the banks of Ida Bay and Lune River Estuary. The scenic water views are superb. There are marked bush walking tracks to Southport Lagoon and Southport Bluff. Near Southport Bluff is the King George III monument which commemorates the 134 lives lost in the sinking of the convict ship, King George III in 1835.
Deep Hole to Southport Lagoon
Southport Lagoon is accessible by a 50 minute walk from the end of the Ida Bay Railway line at Deep Hole. The walk is over reasonable terrain and allows the walker to enjoy the peace and serenity of Southport Lagoon. Many walkers catch a train in to the Deep Hole and complete the walk to Southport Lagoon. Alternatively some walkers stay at the lagoon and catch the last train for the day from Deep Hole to return to the station.
Campers can also do the walk and elect to camp at Southport Lagoon for one or two nights returning to Deep Hole and catching the train back to the station. Return trips on the train need to be negotiated with the railway’s running timetable.
The Friends of Ida Bay Historical Society Inc. was formed in September 2009 for the purpose of preserving and recording the history of Ida Bay Railway, Southport, Hastings, Lune River, Ida Bay, Recherche Bay, and Cockle Creek from 1792 to the present.
Ida Bay Railway Summer Timetable
Open every day except Friday 9.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm & 3.30pm
Phone 03 6298 3110 (0428 383 262) or email Ida Bay Railway for more information
There are other things to do in the area to extend your visit. You could also incorporate a trip to Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs and/or the Tahune Airwalk near Geeveston in the Huon Valley; all part of the southern tourism region of Tasmania.
Allegra Biggs Dale is the co-owner of Labillardiere Estate on Bruny Island.
Her book called “Orchids of Bruny Island” includes her stunning photography.
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Map: Ida Bay Railway…
Southern Tassie Sojourn: a Winter Holiday
Southern Tassie: a Winter Break
by Janette Bishop
This article about a winter break in southern Tassie has been
written for Think Tasmania by Janette Bishop. She and husband Chris own
Beachside Retreat West Inlet in Stanley in the state’s north west.
Janette could have written about her own backyard; but she chose to share her
holiday experience in the Huon Valley region instead. And we love that
Tasmanian spirit of networking and co-operation. So please enjoy!
Luxury Hideaway in the Huon
Our first three days were spent at Woodbridge Hill Hideaway, in one of the four eco-friendly cabins perched high on the hillside overlooking the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and Bruny Island. Created artistically from Tasmanian timbers, luxuriously and beautifully furnished, including superb stained glass windows, this accommodation is magnificent. The views of southern Tassie from the spa bathroom, with sliding windows opening up to the panoramic view below, are amazing.
Every comfort has been thought of; Nespresso coffee machine, generous breakfast provisions, wines to purchase and a large deck with barbecue to cook your own. The complimentary WiFi was appreciated. Best of all was the beautifully built, enormous, well heated indoor pool, which you can book all to yourselves. It had of course, the usual magnificent panoramic view, which we were getting quite used to by now and swimming 10 to 12 lengths of the pool a day, was a lovely way to hopefully shed some excess kilos.
We finally dragged ourselves away from the views and spent a little time exploring southern Tassie: Kettering and Oyster Cove. We were amazed at the sheltered marina, absolutely packed with luxury yachts and craft of all shapes and sizes. This is definitely the place to go, if you are looking for a mooring or boat to purchase. I hastily moved on my better half; he was fairly drooling.
We regretfully left this lovely hideaway and our amiable hosts, Fintan and Ruth.
- HOT TIP: Book via the online system on their website, as the owners
lead very busy lives and are hard to track down. Take your bathers.
Bruny Island: a Highlight of Southern Tassie
The 15 minute ferry ride from Kettering to Bruny Island was a pleasant experience, departing approximately every hour and costing $28 return for a vehicle and two passengers. The southern Tassie island has a rich history, spectacular landscapes and delicious produce and was formerly inhabited by the Nuenanne band of Aboriginals for thousands of years prior to Abel Tasman arriving in 1773. The last full-blood aboriginal Trugannini was also born here in 1803.
Leaving the ferry we passed a smokehouse and cheese factory, where we were looking forward to tasting the local delicacies, but unfortunately they were both closed during August; a reason to return. The penguin rookery and lookout at the Neck, with it’s spectacular view was our next stop. We did not linger, as we were expected at our next destination and did not want to keep our hosts waiting. We passed through the small towns of Alonnah and Lunawanna on our way to Labillardiere Estate, on Lighthouse Road.
As this is a private, gated 1500 acre wildlife property, arrangements were made for the electronic gate to be unlocked and our hostess Allegra Biggs Dale was waiting. Our home for the next three days was Chez Discovery, a solar and diesel generated, environmentally sensitive abode, set in a clearing with views to Great Taylor’s Bay and D’Entrecasteaux Channel. Two bedrooms, a spacious lounge and well equipped kitchen with gas cooker, laundry and modern bathroom more than supplied our needs. Breakfast can be provided.
Allegra and husband Adrian have lived at Labillardiere for 20 years, after foregoing exciting places like the Middle East, Maldives and Asia. They are delightful people and will proudly show you the natural features of their property; the birds, forests, wetlands and of course the petit orchids, of which Allegra now has a book to her name. Adrian’s hobby is his seven metre amphibious craft, ‘Aquila’ Sealegs, which is in full survey and available for tours for up to six passengers.
Regretfully, the windy conditions were not conducive to either a trip in Aquila or the Bruny Island Cruise, so we made the decision to revisit Chez Discovery and Bruny Island in the autumn, when hopefully the weather will be more favourable. A pleasant stay with interesting hosts.
- HOT TIP: Let Allegra know your arrival time for scheduled entry
via the electronic gate and take plenty of provisions with you.
Internet connection is available.
Back to Basics for a Winter Break
We disembarked Bruny the same way as we came and spent a leisurely morning driving onto our next winter break destination, Huon Bush Retreats, stocking up on food, en route. The roads were very quiet and we only passed one hire car with tourists, all morning. The retreat is situated in an extensive private habitat reserve, at the end of a narrow, steep, winding, 4km gravel road and has a range of self contained cabins, tipees and campsites.
Our compact studio cabin, had a small kitchen/dining space, lounge and sleeping area, bathroom with shower and a composting toilet. It was basically furnished, had 12 volt electricity and no TV or mobile phone coverage. If urgent, we could have recharged our computer at reception, but decided to wait. The surrounding bush was alive with wildlife which would enter your cabin uninvited, if a door was unintentionally left open.
We decided to visit Cockle Creek and Recherche Bay the following morning, which we thoroughly enjoyed. The rain clouds cleared to shafts of sunlight, as we walked to the waters edge at the Whale Sculpture; a pod of dolphins appearing momentarily in the bay. Pure magic and well worth the trip, over a sometimes waterlogged track. Thank goodness for the Land Rover Defender; it was reassuring to know that we were not likely to get bogged!
- HOT TIP: Attempt the steep mountain road before dusk.
Make sure your computer/shaver etc., are fully charged.
A wonderful, well-written article about southern Tassie, and we’re very pleased Janette decided to share with us. Choosing to holiday-at-home proved beneficial for the Bishops, too. After their winter break, they returned to the Beachside Retreat West Inlet in Stanley without any sign of a winter “mainland flu”. Refreshed and devoid of any travel-related stresses, they have a renewed appreciation for southern Tassie after a 20-year break between visits.
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Map: Southern Tassie…
Hastings Caves: Have To Do List!
Beth Russell, Manager at Hastings Caves, made contact in mid-September saying she’d love Think Tasmania to visit. And we didn’t need to be asked twice! We were very excited about the prospect of driving south of Hobart for a day out. We started talking about the upcoming visit on Facebook, and do you know what? We had the most feedback we’ve ever had about one of our planned journeys!
Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs: On Everyone’s List
People were commenting about Hastings Caves in one of two ways…
- either they had been and it was wonderful, we were going to love it; or
- they’d never been but had always wanted to visit. Could they come with us?
We can now understand why everyone was so excited. It’s a fabulous and unique experience, and it’s quite easy to manage in a day trip from Hobart. 100km drive (or about an hour and a half) will get you there, through Huonville, Franklin and Port Huon.
We stopped briefly in Geeveston on the way, hoping to have some of Masaaki’s Sushi for lunch. It’s another pretty popular draw card for the Huon Valley region, especially since his appearance on Gourmet Farmer. The tiny shop (behind The HR Factor in the main street) hadn’t yet opened for the day, so we missed out. But never fear, we’ll just head to the Farmers Market in Hobart one Sunday and have our fix of sushi!
Hastings Caves Visitor Centre
As the Huon Highway turns towards Southport, you take the Hastings Caves Road to the right and drive towards Ida Bay Railway until you reach a gravel road into the state reserve, which is well sign-posted. We arrived at the Hastings Caves Visitor Centre, half expecting to be the only visitors. It was a public holiday for the show, and we thought everyone else would be at the Hobart Showground. Wrong!! The carpark was full, and when we met Erin at the counter inside, we learned a very valuable lesson that we can pass on to you… make a booking!
Each cave tour can accommodate about 30 people, and we just scraped in to the final tour of the day at 3:00pm. The four tours prior to that had all been fully booked. But waiting didn’t pose a problem at all, as we got to enjoy a walk through the forest. Part way around the boardwalk, we saw an echidna scurry off the track and bury his head in the sand, trusting his spines to protect his bottom!
Swimming and the Thermal Springs
On the walk, you can stop to watch fish in the stream, or search for a platypus. And there’s a special place you can lean down and touch the water to appreciate another phenomenon of the Hastings Caves Reserve: the Thermal Springs. The underground springs feed a swimming pool, where the water is naturally heated to about 28C.
We joined several other families enjoying the surrounds of the thermal pool. Plenty were swimming; others were playing ball games on the grass. Even more were using the BBQ’s or having lunch at the picnic tables.
Locals can purchase an annual pool membership, and a family from Dover told us they made it their mission to visit quite often. With two roaring open fires in the BBQ huts, the heated pool would be a pleasant experience even during cooler months.
Newdegate Cave Tour
Before long, it was time to whip through the heated showers, make our way back to the car park and drive the 5kms from the Visitor Centre to the Newdegate Cave. We donned jackets (the cave is about 9C) and sturdy footwear. Then with tickets in hand, we made our way past signs detailing the accidental discovery of the caves by loggers, to meet our guide.
Parks and Wildlife Service tour-guide Trish gave the group a quick introductory spiel, and then we were led into the entrance to face… the stairs! Now anyone having read some of my previous articles would know I hate stairs. With a passion! Erin had given me the heads up: there was about 500 of the dreaded steps to negotiate. Worried enough to hand over the camera so I could focus all my energy, I steeled myself.
But I needn’t have worried at all. Walkers set their own pace and when the whole group had assembled in each new chamber, Trish would shine her flashlight and explain how the spectacular dolomite features had formed over 40 million years. While there’s a lot of stairs overall, you’re walking down, then up, then across; and all with breaks in between for photos and questions. I managed the 50 minute tour, including the set of stairs dubbed “Jenny Craig”, with both dickie hip and lungs intact!
Hastings State Forest Reserve
Several of the formations have been given names: headache rock, birthday cake, champagne glasses and a champagne bottle. And while photography (even flash) is allowed in the caves, nothing can compare to seeing the crystal straws, stalactites and glow worms in person. The whole thing is absolutely amazing. $60-00 will cover a Newdegate Cave tour; a swim in the thermal springs pool and a great family day in the Tasmanian forest reserve.
The writer and her family were guests of Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs.
For more information visit the website or phone (03) 6298 3209
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Map: Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs…
Gourmet Farmer: Finding Common Ground
Gourmet Farmer and Associates
by Roger Findlay
Meeting the Gourmet Farmer…
Travelling around Tasmania I have met so many people enjoying life; doing the things that they enjoy best. If you’ve walked through Salamanca Market on a Saturday, you’ll know exactly what I mean.
Matthew Evans
Matthew Evans was the editor and restaurant reviewer for the Sydney Morning Herald food supplement before starting a new life in Cygnet, Tasmania. He was escaping from the rat-race of city life and the pressure of the job. By reporting the truth on a few upmarket restaurants it got to the stage where his life had to contend with an element of animosity and threat. His book, Never Order Chicken on a Monday, is intriguing stuff and tells the full story.
The Gourmet Farmer on SBS
On Thursday, August 25 at 7.30pm, SBS will be screening the first episode in the second series of Gourmet Farmer. I do know that Evans and associates did some filming on Flinders Island as well as mainland regions of Tasmania.
Nick Haddow and Ross O’Meara share and live the same dream as Evans. Nick is the owner of the Bruny Island Cheese Company and Ross O’Meara is an artisan butcher who makes the most wonderful pork pies!
A Common Ground
Until quite recently, the trio and their wares could be found running a stall at Salamanca Market, but they have now moved to a small shop called A Common Ground at the bottom end of Salamanca.
Farmers Markets & Artisan Producers
On our last visit to Hobart in July of this year, Matthew Evans had a stall at the Hobart Farmers Market and my wife, Jeanette, purchased his latest cook book: Winter on the Farm.
I can’t wait to see the next Gourmet Farmer series; or to visit Tasmania again, where the produce is so fresh. We should all support the likes of Matthew Evans and the other growers at farmers markets. They are the ones preserving the values of what food used to be like.
Editor’s Note: A Common Ground is also the name given to a collaboration between the Gourmet Farmer (Matthew Evans), Ross O’Meara, Nick Haddow and other Tasmanian artisan producers. With the dynamic trio at the helm, farmers, fishermen, winemakers and brewers present their gourmet produce at functions held in unique locations.
So far one event has been hosted in a stone barn in Stanley. Another in a paddock on Flinders Island. Apparently, Mount Wellington makes the perfect location for a winter feast of fondue and mulled wine. Go figure!
Map of Cygnet Tasmania…
Wooden Boat Centre: Franklin Belle for Tetsuya Wakuda
The Wooden Boat Centre: Franklin Tasmania
by Roger Findlay
The Wooden Boat Centre is located in Franklin, is a 40 minute drive south of Hobart on the western side of the Huon River.
Franklin, Huon Valley Tasmania
The Huon Valley town was named after Sir John and Lady Jane Franklin, who lived in the town and commuted to Hobart in a wooden boat named Huon Pine. Once an apple orchard area, Franklin is surrounded by small farms and the town itself retains the aura of a former port. The changing colours and reflections on the river make this a photographers paradise.
The Craft of Building: Wooden Boat Centre
The Wooden Boat Centre sits alongside the jetty and is a great place to visit. You can watch craftsmen and trainees building wooden boats from complicated plans. To fulfil their lifetime ambition, trainees pay for the unique experience and dedicate countless hours of labour in achieving their goal.
Tasmanian Ambassador: Tetsuya Wakuda
We talked to one of the boat builders and he was proud to tell us about the boat he was building for Sydney restaurateur Tetsuya Wakuda.
Tetsuya is a great fan of Tasmanian produce and works closely alongside Brand Tasmania as an international ambassador. His boat is made of Huon pine that came from a stockpile found on the forest floor near Lynchford.
Franklin for a Huon Pine Boat… or just Coffee!
If you have a spare $800,000, you too can have a wooden boat like the one that Tetsuya owns! Even if you can’t afford one right now, Franklin and the Wooden Boat Centre are well worth a visit.
Map of Franklin Tasmania…
Seafood Catch of the Day: A Menu of Fish!
Seafood: what’s that old saying about the diet? See food… and eat it? Well if you’re remotely interested in undertaking a diet of seafood, and want both quality and variety of selection… Tasmania is the place for you! Options include a fresh catch, a fine-dining platter or a take-away paper cone-full of fish n chips. And any of them taste so much better with a view of the very place they came from.
Seafood: Catch a Connoisseur
Reading the articles from Roger Findlay (detailing his gastronomic travels with wife Jeanette to the Apple Isle) would make anyone hungry. He’s always up for a challenge too. When I mentioned smoked trout once, I’m pretty sure he booked the next plane he could catch bound for Tasmania!
The Woodbridge Smokehouse came to my attention when I noticed the fabulous graphic on their website. When I made a comment to the Smoke Master (Roger Scales, although I’m not convinced that could actually be his real name); his reply was simple… if you think the website is good wait till you try the product! Woodbridge is located between Snug and Middleton in The Channel region south of Hobart. I’m sure we’ll have more details to bring you one day. Wild horses couldn’t keep our man Roger away!
Hook Your Own Fish
If you prefer your seafood to be fresh rather than smoked, you could try your hand at a little fishing. There’s plenty of Tasmanian trout fishing experts around the state, and you can charter tours offshore for the big game fish. Locals might even take you for a spin in their boat if you ask them really nicely. We met some chatty fishermen at Birchs Bay (also near the D’Entrecasteaux Channel) who were quite pleased with their catch: tuna, I think?
Want your adventure in Tasmania to remain strictly on dry ground? You can dangle a basic old fishing line (or a flash new one) from a jetty or wharf. Marine and Safety Tasmania do a fantastic job providing facilities around the state to encourage recreational fishing. Flathead make a tasty seafood dinner, and these beauties were caught by George from South Arm. George was just five at the time!
Cooking the Catch
Nice as a fresh catch may be, what if you prefer your fish to be cleaned, cooked and presented to you on a plate? I’m sorry, you just can’t find that anywhere in Tasmania. Kidding! Many of you would’ve already read our rave reviews about Pedro’s Seafood Restaurant in Ulverstone. Popular place with Tasmanian tourists and locals, always a good sign. The seagulls even set up camp on the lawns, waiting for a stray chip. Obviously too lazy to catch their own fish!
The east coast of Tasmania is a region well known for its fishing. While the seafood processing plants are no longer operational, in places like Bicheno, you can still manage to score a crayfish from the butcher. Our host Debbie from Bicheno Ocean View Retreat suggested we try a meal at the Sea Life Centre, a local institution in the town. We took her advice and had a generous feed…
As we came to expect in the east coast town, we had great service at the restaurant. Over lunch we had a lovely chat with our waiter Tim, who was a wealth of knowledge about the local area. As it turns out, he’s also a very creative photographer.
Fishing Boats & Take-away Seafood
In Doo Town near the Tessellated Pavement on the Tasman Peninsula, we bought lunch near The Blowhole. Behind the vendor, whose caravan was wildly popular (that day at least), there’s a view to the fishing boats that deliver the produce straight from the Tasman Sea. And the strawberry and raspberry sundaes were also a sight to behold!
So there you have a tiny taste selection from the Tasmanian menu. By no means an exhaustive list of options, as you will see from Roger’s article about Stanley next week. Feel free to leave a reply about your own special seafood experience below.
















































