Archive for the ‘Tasmanian History’ Category

Historic New Norfolk

by Cassandra Wunsch

After Hobart and Launceston, historic New Norfolk was the third planned settlement in Tasmania.  Official attempts to name the town were basically ignored by the inhabitants, with ‘the Hills’ and ‘Elizabeth Town’ failing to stick.  In a lot of ways, that may have set the tone for the general ‘go your own way’ mentality often attributed to the residents.

Historic New Norfolk accommodation property Tynwald (Photo by Dan Fellow)

Hop Plants & Oust Houses

Hops made their debut in the area in 1846 and that’s where our interest really begins.  The most well-known feature of the town was the Oast House on the Lyell Highway.  Only in operation for a little over two years (1867-1869), the Oast House made its way into the modern tourism trade, operating as a museum and tea house until it was destroyed by fire in 2009.

With the major draw-card destroyed, there was a serious drop off in interest in New Norfolk… though this is completely unwarranted.  The Oast House was good, but it was far from All.

Historic New Norfolk Oust House (Photo by Dan Fellow)

The Bush Inn

The truth is, there is a heap to see and do in New Norfolk, especially if you’re interested in history.  My personal favourite location is the Bush Inn.  At the time when I was a frequent patron, they did a smoked rainbow trout to die for!  My father used to love watching me eat it.  He said what was left at the end reminded him of Fred Flintstone’s comb.  In food, as in life, Dad’s usual approach is a little ham-fisted.

If you’re after a little bit of scandal, you could always track down Licensee Tom Atkins and ask him about secret convict tunnels which have been rumoured to start in the basement and run off underneath the historic New Norfolk township!

Autumn colours: click image to see article ~ Autumn in Tasmania

Antique Stores

I am of the personal opinion that New Norfolk also has the highest proportion of antique stores relative to town size of any place in Australia!  You can’t turn around without falling over one.  Slightly dim rooms, piled floor to ceiling with everything from junky buttons to the Narnia wardrobe.  They’re also uniformly run by friendly retirees who’re more than happy to answer your questions about their wares, and all the local history they know.

The Grave of Betty King

One such conversation might lead you out to Magra, about 3km north of New Norfolk proper, to the grave of Betty King.  Local lore suggests that Mrs King (then miss Thackery) was the first white woman to set foot on Australian soil. Or it might have you water-gazing near the New Norfolk Bridge, where the sunken hulk to the river steamer ‘Emu’ is still sitting.

The Derwent Valley, attracting tourists for history, nature and fun (Photo by Dan Fellow)

Salmon Ponds

If you’re after a touch more excitement, or a family outing with the kids, you can’t go past the Salmon Ponds.  There’s a museum and heritage buildings for mum and dad, a licenced restaurant and the kids can feed the fish.  Located about 10 minutes from historic New Norfolk, this picturesque spot is well worth a visit.

The Salmon Ponds is a great family attraction, 10 mins from historic New Norfolk

Devil Jet

Not lively enough for you?  Alright… you asked for it.  Devil Jet is a little enterprise on the banks of the Derwent River designed to get you screaming!  The 12 metre jet boat is designed specifically for skimming you along the surface of the river like a smooth stone.  A word of warning though, you will get wet.

Want more than history in New Norfolk? Try a Devil Jet Boat ride on the Derwent River

 Cassandra Wunsch is a third-year journalism student at Open Universities
Australia.  She lives in Hobart with her husband Florian and daughter Taliesin,
and would like to continue to write full-time when she graduates.
Her personal blog is www.10percentinspired.com

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Map: Historical New Norfolk, Tasmania…

In a recent article, I raised the issue of overpriced holiday accommodation being the cause of dwindling tourist numbers for Tasmania.  Lakeview Cottage falls outside of this category.  The convict-built sandstone cottage with a modern extension can be found on the edge of Oatlands and it is excellent value for money.  In 2011 we paid $110 a night for two adults and for this we had the run of the house, most outbuildings and grounds.

Lakeview Cottage is in Oatlands, part of the Heritage Highway region of Tasmania

Lakeview Cottage: Excellent Place to Stay in Oatlands

by Roger Findlay

On arrival, we collected the key from the Heritage Highway Visitor Centre adjacent to the Callington Mill.  The staff at the Visitor Centre are very friendly and helpful, possessing customer service skills that so many lack.

A feature of Oatlands, the Callington Mill, Heritage Highway Visitor Centre

After a two minute drive we arrived at the entrance to the grounds of what appeared to be a kind of Tasmanian history museum.  The vast array of outbuildings and farm implements were in character with the sandstone cottage.  It’s only when you go around the back that you see a modern extension that forms the family room, dining area and kitchen.

The convict build sandstone cottage has a modern extension at the rear

Before we had entered the cottage, a lady arrived to make sure we were comfortable and that the fire was blazing.  She came each morning to check we had milk and firewood!

A steady supply of firewood to keep Lakeview Cottage cosy and warm

Modern Comforts in a Heritage Home

When Jeanette first sighted the modern kitchen I knew I had made the right choice.  The impressive stainless steel curved island bench top and separate cook-top/range was more than adequate for my girl.  In-floor heating and double glazing ensures that the lounge and dining area is comfortable on the cold, frosty mornings that Oatlands regularly receives.

The outbuildings of Lakeview Cottage are like a collection from a museum

The original sandstone cottage has one double and two single bedrooms but if you include the double in the sleep-out and four singles in the stable master’s quarters, Lakeview Cottage has the capacity for ten!

Experience: Convict-Built Sandstone Cottage

Sleeping in a sandstone bedroom is quite an experience.  I had to stoop to pass through the doors and use a torch for the nightly toilet ritual.  A visit to this bathroom is an experience in itself as the renovation has tastefully combined the use of sandstone with Colorbond linings.

Lake Dulverton can be seen from the garden and a ten minute walk will take you to the path around the lake.  It takes about the same time to get onto the main street of Oatlands where there is more than enough to keep you occupied for a couple of days.

The main street of Oatlands, only a 10 minute walk from Lakeview Cottage

Touring Tasmania from the Heritage Highway

Oatlands makes an ideal base for touring the region.  Hobart is only an hour away but Ross and Campbell Town are even closer.  It’s even handy for day trips to Launceston in the north and the coastal town of Orford, along a back road, to the east coast.

For reasons of privacy, I have deliberately avoided including photos inside the cottage but there are images on the Lakeview Cottage page on the Heritage Highway Tasmania website.  When you’re next considering Oatlands, why not consider convict-built sandstone accommodation… Lakeview Cottage?  You’ll be in for a treat.

Roger Findlay spends all his holidays in Tasmania, then writes about the
experience for Think Tasmania. If you’d like Roger to visit you in the name of
research (so we can publish information about your business), please contact us.

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Map: Lakeview Cottage, Heritage Highway Tasmania…

Sounds to me like Roger is going a little crazy… for Tasmania!
Thankfully his trip to Flinders Island is only a few weeks away.
Not long after that, he’ll be touring mainland regions of Tasmania.
When you read this article, you’ll realise just how crazy for Tasmania
the man really is… and what his lovely wife Jeanette has to put up with!

A Week in the Life of Roger

by Roger Findlay

Because of my location here on the border of Victoria and New South Wales, it’s bothering me that I’m not spending enough time in Tasmania.  I must confess that I envy all the Think Tasmania writers who live in the state; especially those who have settled after moving from elsewhere.

Michelle Kneipp-Pegler, another feature writer also crazy for Tasmania like Roger

Nikon: Capturing Tasmanian Food and Drink

My current frustration is caused by my redundant camera that is yearning to snap the indescribable scenery in Tasmania.  As a substitute, images of the fabled Irish and Tasmanian Scallop Pies will be a treat for Nikon!  Yes, today is St. Patrick’s Day where Jeanette has spent countless hours preparing the pies to appease her husband.

The Findlay house was filled with the divine smell of scallop pies baking in the oven

Jeanette:  Roger has been away with the fairies reading books on Tasmania,
visiting Tasmanian websites, researching holiday accommodation and travel
costs.  He’s considering a short trip at the end of June but he doesn’t know
whether he should fly or sail.  I found one of his notes with the sums:

Roger compares the costs and options for travelling to Tasmania

Tasmanian History Books

Yes, she’s right, my mind has been elsewhere, going crazy for Tasmania.  I’ve been reading two books at the same time.  One is about the whaling fleet that operated out of Hobart and the other is a first-hand account of the activists that live in the Tasmanian forests.

At this point I am reminded of the news clip that covered the success of Sea Shepherd that sent the Japanese whaling fleet limping home from the Southern Ocean almost empty handed.  Seeing the Bob Barker docked in Hobart and hearing the words of the courageous, young skipper was the highlight of my week.

Sea Shepherd anti-whaling vessel, The Bob Barker, docked in Hobart

I’ve been on eBay looking for books.  There’s always a bargain especially as I seek out some of the older publications.  A good find was Tasmanian Journey written by Stanley Brogden in 1948 when he travelled by coach through much of Tasmania.  I was saddened to read of Tasmanian Devils being hunted and killed.  At that time, they were seen as a major threat to sheep.  If only those people had known of the current plight to prevent extinction.

Being crazy for Tasmania, Roger collects Tasmanian books from eBay

Brogden mentions the intention of Pioneer Hotels on several occasions.  He sees them in the same light as the Federal Group where they would control a good portion of the tourism and hospitality sector.  I can find no record of Pioneer Hotels today.

Fly, Drive or Sail to Tasmania

Sharp Airlines will be taking us to Flinders Island and they’ve finally got my money after telling me that there were only three seats left on the flight!  It struck me as a convenient way of getting the money early.  Yes all $912 of it for a 50 minute flight for two people.  The following day, I received their newsletter advertising specials at $99 one-way.  They’re sharp alright!  Maybe we’ll be sitting next to the pilot with complimentary drinks and live, in-flight entertainment. It had better be good.

To promote deportation of wayward children, the Spirit of Tasmania has a special where children travel free.  The only catch being that they have to be accompanied by an adult.  Jeanette may pass off as child if she wears baggy pj’s and carries a pillow.

The Spirit of Tasmania arrives in Devonport, Tasmania from Melbourne, Victoria

Scallop Pie Challenge

Nikon is just moments away from action.  Just like Ian Thorpe, he’s making a comeback and wants to succeed.  The scallop pies will be a major test and a late decision will be made on the aperture.  Close to the oven, conditions will be difficult but there will be slight relief as the fridge door opens frequently.

Who wouldn't be crazy for Tasmanian scallop pies, home-made by Jeanette Findlay

Guinness is also ready to go.  His one ball is poised for carbonation.  Premature carbonation has been a problem in the past but tonight he’s expecting a good head.  The ball has shown restraint on the long journey from Dublin and will enjoy his empty can being crushed in the morning.  The pictures tell the story and I’m thankful that the Scallop Pie Challenge is over!

Roger is also crazy for Tasmanian scallop pies (or Irish ones) with Guinness

So what do you think?  Is Roger crazy for Tasmania… or maybe just crazy?
Either way, Roger spends all his holidays in Tasmania, then writes about the
experience for Think Tasmania. If you’d like Roger to visit you in the name of
research (so we can publish information about your business), please contact us.

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Map: Flinders Island Tasmania…

Exploring Currie Harbour Lighthouse, King Island

by Roger Findlay

If ever you find yourself in Currie on King Island, part of the north west region of Tasmania, I would suggest that you make enquiries about a lighthouse tour.  We found out about it when we went to the Currie Library to browse books and use the internet.

The township of Currie, King Island in the north west region of Tasmania

Book Lighthouse Tour.  Tick.

We booked a tour and met our guide at the lighthouse the following day.  It always amazes me how versatile people are in somewhat remote places and our tour guide was no exception.  Apart from being an occasional guide, this charming lady (originally from Wangaratta in Victoria) worked at the school and at the library.  Her husband managed their farm and she was quite capable of helping in between her other duties.

Currie Harbour Lighthouse

The elevated lighthouse stands alongside the entrance to Currie Harbour and serves the dual purpose of a harbour entrance light and a coastal light.  An English company pre-fabricated the structure from wrought iron with a cast iron base before shipping to King Island for construction in 1879.

Currie Harbour Lighthouse on King Island in the north west region of Tasmania

It was lit the following year but it wasn’t until 1957 that mains power was used.  In 1989, the authorities considered the light unnecessary and it was switched off.  Locals resisted this action and, after much lobbying, the light was restored to operable in 1995.

The Brave & Noble Tourist

I’m not comfortable with steep spiral staircases or heights but on this occasion I had to put on a brave face to outdo my very brave and nimble wife!  I let her go first with me in the middle and the guide at the rear.  By doing this, I thought I would be safe if I happened to fall!

Jeanette Findlay handles the spiral staircase of the lighthouse tour with ease!

It made me feel dizzy looking up from the bottom.  The challenge entailed 90 narrow steel steps winding to a height of 21.3 metres.  Jeanette had seen me crossing a rickety suspension bridge at Montezuma Falls.  She had seen my face turn green.  Now she was gloating again! (How could Mr Perfect be outdone?)

View Over Currie

The steady climb was well worth it as the view down to Currie Harbour, the Boat House and over to the township was magnificent.  Despite the wintry conditions and the spray from the rain on the lighthouse glass, our guide could point out all of the interesting features.  She also had excellent knowledge of the old light systems and lenses that were on display.

The lighthouse tour guide can point out features: like a burnt out Boat House

Not too bad going up but how would I go coming down?  Being the only male, I considered it rather chivalrous to let the ladies go first!  To my relief we made the bottom without incident and now I have this tale of the Currie Harbour lighthouse tour to tell (and photos to share!).

Currie Harbour views from the top of the King Island lighthouse

Lighthouse Tour, Keeper’s Residence & Museum

On a separate occasion, we visited the magnificent grounds of the lighthouse keeper’s residence that is now used as a museum.  The stark white buildings are kept in immaculate condition and stand as a prominent landmark on the western side of King Island.

As we drove back towards the Naracoopa Holiday Cottages where
we were staying, Jeanette hinted that she would like a spiral staircase
in our next home.  Blimey, it’s hard enough finding her in the king
sized bed let alone chasing her up a spiral staircase!

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Map: Currie Harbour Lighthouse, King Island, Tasmania…

Bruny Island: An Introduction

by Roger Findlay

The isthmus joining north and south Bruny Island

Bruny Island Ferry: Kettering

Bruny Island can be accessed by regular ferry service from Kettering in the Huon Valley region.  Kettering is a comfortable 45 minute drive south of Hobart on the southern outlet via Kingston.  To make the journey a bit more interesting, we usually travel along the coast road through Sandy Bay and Taroona where you may wish to visit to the Shot Tower.

Before you commence your journey, check out the Bruny Island Ferry departure times so that you don’t have to wait for too long.

Take the vehicular ferry from Kettering to Bruny Island

The ferry boat is of drive on-drive off style and the cost for a return trip is between $28 and $42 depending on the season and length of the vehicle.  The good ship Mirambeena sails at a steady pace for twenty minutes before docking at Roberts Point south of Barnes Bay right at the start of the Bruny Island main road.  The crossing can be a bit blowy but I don’t think you need to take tablets for sea sickness!

The vehicle and passenger ferry between Kettering & Bruny Island (Photo by Dan Fellow)

Isthmus: Memorial to Truganini

Now for those of you that don’t know what an isthmus is, I can tell you!  It is a narrow strip of land between two seas.  Bruny is almost like two islands (north and south) joined by an isthmus just wide enough for the road.  With the sea either side, it makes for a very different drive.  Half way across the isthmus is a lookout and a memorial to Truganini who was born on the island and was married at the island’s mission in 1829.

A memorial to Tasmanian aboriginal Truganini on the isthmus of Bruny Island

Read all about Tasmanian aboriginal Truganini on the isthmus of Bruny Island

Lookout for Bruny Island Residents…

Before we went, I read there are more snakes on Bruny Island than anywhere else in Tasmania.  This didn’t stop us from staying a few days and we’re glad we did as there’s so much to see and do.  The coastal views are breathtaking especially at Kelly’s Lookout.

Breathtaking coastal views abound on Bruny Island

We stayed in a small house in Lunawanna (South Bruny).  It was fairly close to the Cape Bruny lighthouse where we spent time walking the surrounds.  For those interested in history, you can visit the location of Captain James Cook’s 1777 landing at Adventure Bay.

Lighthouse, Cape Bruny (Photo by Dan Fellow)

Bruny Island Foodie Paradise!

For the foodie, Bruny Island is paradise.  I am told the Bruny Island Smokehouse (BISH) is a must.  We chose a cheese platter and fresh baked bread from Nick Haddow’s cheese factory but you may choose to source freshly caught fish or oysters.  The Hotel at Alonnah serves hearty pub food and you can sit outside drinking a cleansing ale right beside the sea.

Bruny Island Hotel at Alonnah, the place for hearty pub food

We’ve been to Bruny Island twice now and it’s a place we would visit again.  Three days on the island makes it worthwhile and reduces the odds of seeing one of those snakes I told you about!

Roger's daughter Carly Findlay enjoys the view over the Bruny Island isthmus

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Map: Bruny Island Tasmania…

The Salmon Ponds in the Derwent Valley region might just be my new favourite place to send tourists on holiday in Tasmania.  We went there for the first time a fortnight ago, and had the best day.  We managed to arrange some magnificent weather just for the occasion, which always helps.  And with some great company, it was perfect for a relaxing day in the great outdoors.  Really, truly, perfect.

The Salmon Ponds, 10 minutes from New Norfolk in the Derwent Valley, Tasmania

Salmon Ponds: Lunch in the Derwent Valley

The picturesque drive to the Salmon Ponds from Hobart takes about 40 minutes.  From New Norfolk, you follow Glenora Road on the western bank of the Derwent River, heading towards Mt Field National Park.  There’s a sign on the road marking the way to the entrance.  Through an avenue of trees, you will emerge at the carpark outside reception.

After a pleasant drive through the Derwent Valley, we arrived at the Salmon Ponds

Our first duty was to sample the lunch menu.  The Salmon Ponds has a casual, fully-licensed cafe. The selection features mostly pancakes, but with a special burger and salad of the day.  The young ladies in control of the dining area were run off their feet, but did an exemplary job.  Our group ordered a variety of food (salmon salad, beef burger, chicken curry pancakes) and drinks, and everyone was happy with their choice.  I would definitely plan any future visits to coincide with lunch.

It really is pancakes by the pond if you want!! Or a burger, or a salad...

Feeding Trout in the Salmon Ponds!

Once we were fed, it was time to head to the salmon ponds and feed the fish.  This was the highlight of the day!  For $2-00, you can purchase a plastic tub filled with pellets, and the fish are well aware of the routine.  A punter at the edge of the pond clearly screams “food coming”.

Hand-feed varieties of trout and Atlantic Salmon swimming in the ponds

Breeds of trout (Rainbow, Brown, Tiger and Albino) and Atlantic Salmon are separated into their own large ponds, and frequently jump right out of the water when you’re feeding them.  They’re obviously well cared for, as some of them are huge fish.  Apparently they can weigh up to eight kilograms.

Tasmanian Museum: Trout Fishing & Hatchery

The feeding of humans and fish is not the only attraction.  A cottage built in 1865, originally for the superintendent of the Salmon Ponds, is now the Tasmanian Museum of Trout Fishing.  Okay, so trout fishing.  Not salmon?  Yes, that’s correct.

In the beginning, the idea was to hatch and breed salmon sent over from England.  But the salmon released in Tasmania were way too smart to hang around, so the angling folk had to resort to trout.  Hence the popular sport was launched and eventually became the booming industry we have in the state today.

Tasmanian Museum of Trout Fishing, part of the Salmon Ponds, New Norfolk

If you’re interested in the fish-breeding process, you can also access the Hatchery at the Salmon Ponds.  There’s clearly a complicated process involved in keeping Tasmanian lakes and rivers stocked with enough healthy trout to go around.  Some of the history of angling in Tasmania is also revealed in this heritage building, along with big tanks and egg-sorting paraphernalia.

The heritage Hatchery building and the history of the Salmon Ponds

Heritage Trees and English Gardens

You don’t necessarily have to be mad-keen on fishing to appreciate the Salmon Ponds.  I can vouch for that!  Gardeners will be mesmerised by the trees, lawns and hedges surrounding the waterways.  Huge expanses of lush, green lawn are edged by mature trees in the fashion of 19th Century England.  Obviously the people responsible for the planting knew exactly what they were doing, because the significant trees are up to 140 years old.  When we arrived, we were given a brochure outlining the placement of each different species of tree.

A magnificent collection of heritage trees in the English-style gardens

Plenty River Walk

There’s also a walking path alongside the Plenty River, where you can search for the elusive platypus and spot the occasional eel.  And while there’s no angling opportunities within the Salmon Ponds, a platform on the River Walk has been built to allow people with disabilities to fish for trout.

The Plenty River Walk, where you might spy a platypus or a slippery eel

Also along the Plenty River Walk, there’s a hut (called The Sanctuary), which is a re-creation of the accommodation available to Tasmanian pioneers as they enjoyed their trout fishing.  Nearby, there are terrific picnic and bbq facilities if you choose to pass on the Pancakes by the Pond.

Vigorous cricket matches were in progress around the grounds on the day of our visit.  And rounding out the things to do and see at the Salmon Ponds…  the Tasmanian Angling Hall of Fame is housed in another outbuilding.

Youl be Proud…

Sir James Arndell Youl would be very proud to see that his “bold thinking and careful experimentation” has evolved into this wonderful heritage attraction.  And I’m pretty happy that we’ve been to see the Salmon Ponds in person, and can now confidently recommend it to you.

Sir James Arndell Youl, a pioneer of the trout fishing industry in Tasmania

For information regarding opening times and entrance fees
(which include all-day access to the entire grounds)
visit the Salmon Ponds website.

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Map: Salmon Ponds Tasmania…

Entally House

by Michelle Kneipp Pegler

Beautiful Entally House and Estate is located 15 minutes from Launceston on the Meander Valley Touring Route in the community of Hadspen.  The Estate was established by Thomas Reibey II in 1819 and is one of the best historic homes in Tasmania.

Entally House: a fine heritage estate in Hadspen Tasmania (via Launceston)

It has Australia’s oldest conservatory, chapel, stables, carriage house and farmyard.  In 1947 the property was bought by the Tasmanian Government through the Scenery Preservation Board and managed by the National Parks and Wildlife Service, who today still manage this enchanting property.

Entally House: step back in history at the Estate in Hadspen, Tasmania

Entally House: Estate Gardens & Vineyard

Entally House sits in a large stunning garden setting which also includes a vineyard.  When I arrived and stepped out of the car the heavenly perfume of the garden was one of the first things to greet me.  If you’re a garden-lover you will certainly take pleasure in the floral displays and smells as you walk around this delightful old garden.  These gorgeous grounds are available for events and weddings.

The beautiful estate gardens surrounding Entally House

The interior of Entally House is beautifully preserved and presented.  I enjoyed walking in and out of all the rooms and getting the feel of what it must’ve been like to live here in this era.  You can join one of the tours or walk around the Estate at your own pace.

The estate library in Entally House, one of the beautifully preserved rooms

As with the majority of old buildings in this period of time most of the construction was done with convict labour.  You can enjoy some wine from the vineyard or treat yourself to a lovely Devonshire tea while you reflect on the history and beauty of the property.

An elegant bedroom fit for the landed gentry in olden Tasmanian times

Entally Estate: Heritage Open in Hadspen

Entally House is open 10am to 4pm seven days a week (closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day). Cost of Entry is $10 per adult; $8 per pensioner or student; $25 per family (2 adults and unlimited children).

Take a tour of Entally House or wander the estate at your own pace

Michelle Kneipp Pegler writes a blog called Leven River Farm
about the ups and downs of her Good Life
and occasional forays delving into the lessons of the past.

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Map: Entally House, Hadspen Tasmania…